I made this pics large, click on a pic and you can see the closeup!!! As you can see the top pad was loosing chunks!!! I was not more than a few stops from !)$_%!#$!_$#!!! GBG
I'm happy with my current setup, I'm not running lean and I've backed 'er off a bit to try and improve mileage, you hafta tweak, eh??? The plugs look fine....
A Closer shot of the pads!!! Believe it or not, I didn't !)%*&!_ the rotor!!! Whew!!!
I did a 35K fluid, plug and rear brake pad change. Do you think I got my mileage out of the brake pads??? Geez only a few .000's left on 'um! Shame on me!!! I also changed my plugs, it had been 20K miles and I did the modified Caddmann 6 weeks ago and wanted to see what they looked like. They looked real good!!! I've put a few hundred miles on 'um.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is a later discovery. The filter that came with the kit was the wrong size. I did NOT have to make that notch, I am not sure, but I think bending the cold idle solenoid tabs may not be needed, the spacer I use to tighten the filter cover was not needed, sigh.
All was needed was a K+N 3527 if memory servers me right. Put it on, slap the flat 9" flat cover on and use the stock screw, and you're done!!! Whether or not you unplug the cold air solenoids is your call. I unplugged the two white 12V wires that went to 'um and zipped them to the other wire that is still attached. Maybe someday I'll clean 'um out, but I don't know why.... yet.
The Pics / story is from bottom to top. Click on a pic to see a larger pic.
(After note: I used the old screw to hold the new cover on. The new cover was about 3/8 inch above the mounting post top, so I used a over sized nut under the new cover as a pacer, so I could wrench the screw tight.)
Gadget!!!!!!!! You'Da'Man!!!!!!! Thanks!!!!!!!! Did I say WOW??????!!!!!!
Ruby just wants to RUN!!!!!!! I can't believe the power!!!!!!! I don't know the numbers, but it is REAL noticeable!!!!! I'd have to say 15%.
I hit 1 st and 2nd and was flying!!!!!! OK not a crotch rocket........ DID I SAY WOW????!!!!!
Folks, I'm talking a great big difference..... I'll have to check my plugs to see if they are burning OK in about 3K miles to see if I went lean... I'm running a stock bike, no after market EFI..
[ sub note 5/5/7 - I discovered I DO have a Techlusion FI module and it's set like Gadget suggested on his dyno run charts. That's why I don't run lean or have problems!!!]
DID I SAY WOW??????!!!!!!! Ok, breathe deep.... I'm talking a big difference... JM2C
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GBG WANNA RACE?????!!!!!!! GBG breathe deep, alllmmmm..
Front
Back............
This is the filter in position. I had to "help" it up a bit to get it where I thought it should be.
The bind points were the top of the air intake and the three screws. So I did what any ... don't have the word... GBG would do, I took my thumb and "formed" the inside 1/8" part that was an interference point.
Mounted the filter, pushing it up for a better fit, and after putting the cover on, noticed a gap at the top. Got a small piece of paper and slipped it in thru the gap. NO NO.
So I pressed on the filter to find the bind points...
So I took the old cover off, bent the noise maker reed valves tabs in and had to take my dikes to a plastic cover in the bottom, don't know why it's there but I needed some help in moving the filter up.
I wanted to help Ruby out and more air seemed the answer. So what to do? Geez Go to the Gadget man's place!!!
I didn't want to do major stuff so I went for the modified Caddmann. I went to my local All Parts store, like the place, and they had a 9" breather kit. The outside measurements of the old round cap was 8.5 " and the seal was 1/4" wide, I figured the 9" would overlap and be fine. The new filter was 9" round and was 1/2 " wide.
It had the top, filter and a base plate, and some hardware, but all I wanted was the top and filter. Cost $25
